Black Tot Day

Today is Black Tot Day and the 45th anniversary of the last ever daily rum ration served to sailors in the Royal Navy. After over three hundred years of tradition, at six bells in the forenoon watch (11am) on 31 July 1970, ‘Up Spirits’ was piped on the Bos’n’s call and the grog tub was rolled out for the last time across the British fleet.

The rum ration had held a sacred place in the hearts of Navy sailors since it was first introduced in 1655 as part of the standard Navy rationing of beer, wine and spirits in place of tea, coffee, cocoa and water on all shifts. Until 1740 each sailor was entitled to half a pint of neat rum (40% proof) and a gallon of beer if they wanted it – and most did. 

The rum ration in particular was doled out in a ceremony announced by the Bos’n piping “Up Spirits”. At this call, senior crew members would convene at the door of the Spirit Room, the heavily padlocked home of the ship’s casks of hard liquor. Inside, the Butcher tapped a cask and drew off the day’s ration for the entire ship’s company. Neat tots were issued for the Chiefs and Petty Officers and then the remainder, in a padlocked cask or breaker, was carried to the rum tub.

At Rumcall (played on the bugle) the breaker was unlocked and emptied carefully into the oak tub, with the company arranged in reverence to its shining brass hoops and inscription of “The King – God Bless Him”.

At this point the Petty Officer would consult his ledger and grandly announce the number of tots to which each mess was entitled. Once served, the remainder was poured away down the scuppers (or snuck back to the officers’ cabins).

By 1740, however, Admiral ‘Old Grogram’ Vernon had decided that drunkenness was a scourge up with which the Navy should not put and introduced a ‘Grog’ of 4 parts water to 1 part rum.

However even this dilution was not enough to keep the sailors in a shipshape condition. By 1745 the Navy had decided to cut back on mixing their drinks and moved to issue beer and spirit rations on alternate days. Eleven years later, the thoughtful addition of lime to the rum further mitigated the effects of the Grog and also had the benefit of guarding against scurvy, although it did give the British the nickname of Limeys.

By 1810 it was clear that the Admiralty was taking its dipsological responsibilities seriously as they codified the rum blend to be used across the fleet (thus creating Navy Rum and a recipe still used by Lamb’s to this day) and by 1824 space considerations were clearly more of a concern and the ration was halved to a quarter pint per man (also known as a tot). This freed up more space in the hold for limes, cannonballs, cabin boys and all the ephemera of a modern naval force.

Again, in 1850, Parliament raised concerns about the level of drinking on the high seas and proposed the abolition of the rum ration. Fortunately common sense prevailed and in some presumably excellent negotiations, the decision was made to merely halve the ration to 1/8 pint per sailor per day, to be served once a day, rather than twice, at noon.

Finally on Black Tot Day the ration itself was abolished in an occasion of great solemnity and mourning; some sailors wore black armbands, and some tots were buried at sea.  It was widely accepted that the extra can of beer that had been added to daily rations was scant compensation.

Genuine Navy Grog

  1. Add four parts water to one part navy rum.  Add lime (post 1756) and enjoy.

Modern Navy Grog

  1. Dissolve three teaspoons of honey in 50ml rum.
  2. Add 10ml fresh lime juice, two dashes of Angostura bitters and 50ml water.
  3. Add cubed ice and shake for twenty seconds.
  4. Strain into an ice filled old fashioned glass and garnish with a wedge of lime

Beer and a Smoke

Today is the inaugural British Beer Day and we’re celebrating with a foxy twist on the Beer and a Smoke recipe from Jim Meehan’s PDT recipe book:

  1. Stir 30ml mezcal, 20ml lime juice, a dash of celery bitters and four dashes of Tabasco, or hot sauce with cubed ice for thirty seconds.
  2. Strain into a chilled Collins glass with a salted rim.
  3. Top with 180ml of IPA* and garnish with grated citrus zest.

* The IPA I’m using is Meantime IPA – what could be more British?

Improved Mezcal Cocktail

We recently signed up to be part of the beta testing programme for Asterley Bros new British amaro, Dispense.

After receiving our sample in the post, we tasted it neat, and then with ice to draw out the rich Christmas pudding, spice and fruit notes.

Finally, looking for a little inspiration and something a bit different for a Sunday night in the sunshine, we mixed up an Improved Mezcal Cocktail as follows:

  1. Stir a barspoon of agave nectar, two dashes of Angostura and organge bitters with ice for thirty seconds.
  2. Add 50ml mezcal and 25ml Dispense amaro and stir for a further thirty seconds.
  3. Strain into a rocks glass over a single sphere of ice.

It packs a smoky, bitter punch, but is adequately rounded by the agave nectar and sweet notes of the amaro. Delicious!

Valentine’s Menu

Lipstick Rose

I’m sure everyone already has their Valentine’s Day plans well under control – here at F&B HQ it has so far consisted of a typical 6 Nations Saturday on the sofa – but if you still need inspiration for your evening’s plans, may we present a pre- and a post-dinner drink to set hearts racing?

Lipstick Rose

This drink originates from Tony Conigliaro’s Drink Factory and spent some time on the menu at his 69 Colebrooke Row and Le Coq bars. Inspired by perfumer Ralf Schwieger’s Lipstick Rose creation this drink is sure to get the evening off on a romantic footing:

    1. Build 15ml rose infused vodka, 5ml raspberry and violet syrup and a dash of Peychaud’s bitters in a chilled champagne flute.
    2. Top with champagne and slightly stir.
    3. Finish with a twist of grapefruit peel (discarded) and a lipstick kiss on the rim of the glass.

The recipes for the vodka, syrup and lipstick can be found in Tony Conigliaro’s Drinks.

Hanky Panky

As for after dinner, who could ask for more than a little Hanky Panky? Created by Ada Coleman during her spell as head bartender at the American Bar of The Savoy, London, the Hanky Panky was developed for Victorian actor Sir Charles Hawtrey. Coleman worked on the recipe for hours and when she eventually deemed it good enough to serve Hawtrey drained his glass and exclaimed “By Jove! That is the real hanky-panky!” And Hanky Panky it has been called ever since:

    1. Combine equal parts gin and sweet vermouth with a large dash of Fernet Branca in a mixing glass.
    2. Add plenty of ice and stir for sixty seconds.
    3. Strain into a chilled coupe glass and garnish with a twist of orange peel.